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In Defense of Grass Walls

While the jokes might seem harmless, I think we’re stuck in a counterproductive cycle and being too hard on our restaurants. This isn’t a defense of poor service, egregious fees, or other legitimate frustrations, but I want to take a moment to explore why some of these issues are happening—and why they’re often not connected to greed.


Running a restaurant is one of the most challenging businesses out there. Profit margins are razor-thin, typically only 3-6%, and the upfront costs to even open the doors can be staggering. Leases, equipment, licensing, inventory, and staffing can easily total hundreds of thousands of dollars. When we opened The Gathering Spot in 2016, it took over $3 million before we welcomed our first guests. Most small business owners don’t have that level of investment to lean on. Most Black-owned businesses definitely don’t.The sad part is, even $3 million wasn’t a lot.


For Black restaurant owners, the challenges are amplified. In 2021, the median wealth of Black households was $24,520, compared to $250,400 for White households. With a median income of $56,490 for Black households in 2023, there’s little room to fund or sustain a business in an unforgiving industry like hospitality. These numbers aren’t just statistics—they reflect the uphill battle many face just to open their doors, let alone thrive.


The frustrations we feel as customers, like higher fees, slower service, or limited menu options, often stem from resource constraints, not a lack of effort or care. Restaurants are grappling with rising costs for labor, food, and operations, and many are doing their best to stay afloat. It’s not about greed—it’s about survival.


This cycle of critique, while sometimes funny, can do more harm than good. It reinforces the idea that anything less than perfect is not worth supporting, which only makes it harder for these businesses to succeed. Of course, every business should strive for excellent service and fair practices, but it’s also important to meet these efforts with some grace and understanding.


Our consistent support allows these businesses to reinvest in the things we want to see. When we lean too heavily on criticism, it can contribute to their failure. While it’s easy to discuss negative experiences, when you have a good one, please share it. That positivity goes a long way.


Getting rid of the grass walls and improving the restaurant experience in many ways comes back to capital. Until we collectively have more of it and circulate it better within our communities, this cycle will persist. But know this: businesses in our community are fighting for their lives and we have the ability to be the solution.

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